The art and mystery of the gentle craft, an essay on boot and shoe making by John O'Sullivan
Author:John O'Sullivan
Language: eng
Format: epub, pdf
Published: 1834-03-25T05:00:00+00:00
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brt Jig^&f Bet Ibe welt and stilches. You should have by 3-011, threekiiidsof jiggers, full, middling and light.—But in seltiug Uie welt with gum water, be careful that the iron is not above blood heat; for, if it should, and that it should bear on the upper leather, it will certainly bum the leather,
I for no upper leather can bear heat above blood heat, without being scorched. W Likewise, be careful tliat that part of the iron which is Between the stitch and the upper leather does not bear on Be upper leather; for, if it should, the friction of the iron KBinst tlie upper leather will cause it to tear as if it had Ren cut with an edge tool.—Now after you have set the fetches, take the shoulder stick or iron, and set the fore Hrt all round so hard, that the impression may be visible Bthe edge of the sole, without any future false means; Stat previously let the edge of the sole and welt be damped with a little thin gum water or paste; and if it should get dry, moisten it with your tongue now and then. The next part is to make the
Heel.
In the first place, let the heel stuff be perfectly dry and
11 hammered, so that the lifts, &c. may be hard and dry. ■el the sole and piece-sole, and rasp them; put a Uttle
tte on the part where the split-lift is to be placed. Fix le split-lift with a few tacks; pare it round the heel close
the sole: then in room of the tacks put in as many pegs, and with the hammer lay it smooth, and level it with the knife, and rasp the grain off, and put some paste over the spht-hft and sole, and fix on the lift, and proceed in the same manner as you did with the spht-lift, &c.
The common height of the heels of men's shoes now, is only a top piece above a split-lift: but whether the lifts be more or less, you must be careful that the heel is quiteJeve! before the top piece is put on, that no part of the topipiece in substance is pared off. After you have proceeded with the lifts as above directed, fix the top piece on with two or diree tacks, and with the hammer settle it smooth,—pare it round to the size and form you intend the heel should be; G
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